BoysLife - Outdoors

Q. I have a 45-degree Lafuma mummy sleeping bag and a 15-degree liner to go with it, so it becomes a 30-degree bag. My dad says I’ll be fine in the cold, but I’m not so sure. It gets pretty cold in the tri-state area. What do you think I should do?
— Worried Russell, Randolph, N.J.

A. I think you should give it a shot. Sleep a couple nights out in your bag and find out if it keeps you warm enough. If you’re worried, pitch a tent in the backyard so you’ll be close to home if you do get totally chilled. That said, here are some ways to stay warm inside your sleeping bag: (1) be sure to use a sleeping pad because that will help insulate you from the cold ground, which will quickly suck heat from your body; (2) consider sleeping in warm clothes, like a set of long underwear and wool socks. Also, wear an insulated stocking cap since you lose lots of body heat from the top of your head. Lastly, keep in mind, the temperature ratings on sleeping bags and liners are just general guidelines. It’s up to you to determine at what temperature you can still sleep comfortably in your sleeping bag.

Long ago, Greek astronomers gazed upon the stars and saw wandering bears, arrogant queens, brave hunters and charging bulls. Today, we call these star patterns “constellations.”

Here’s an easy way to trace your way from one winter constellation to another.

1. In the north winter sky, look for the Big Dipper constellation. It looks like an old well dipper, and is part of Ursa Major, the Great Bear.

2. At the “dipper” end, two stars nicknamed the Pointer Stars form a straight line to Polaris, the North Star. Polaris tips the end of the Little Dipper, also known as Ursa Minor, the Little Bear.

3. From Polaris, draw an imaginary line across the sky to a sideways M constellation recognized as Cassiopeia the Queen.

4. Turn your back to Polaris, and look for three stars in a row. These stars form the belt of Orion the Great Hunter.

5. Trace the belt stars down to the left, or east to the brightest star, Sirius, found in The Great Dog (Canis Major).

6. Trace the belt stars up to the right, or west to a V-shaped constellation, Taurus the Bull.

Q. When I get a new traditional lock-blade knife, it often messes up within the first hour. When I close it, the blade flips in and out and will not completely shut. Why isn’t it working?
— Bad Knife Jacob, Clinton, N.C.

A. Without seeing your knife first-hand it’s tough for me to say what’s wrong with it. My guess is that the knife itself wasn’t all that well-made in the first place. I understand that price is usually a concern for most of us, that’s why I’m happy there are knives out there like the SOG AutoClip Mini [$23; sogknives.com]. I’ve field-tested this simple, affordable lock-back knife with its 2.86-inch stainless-steel blade for months and can say it’s well-made and works perfectly. You can also find several other affordable lock-back options from Buck Knives and Gerber. Good luck!

As high-tech gadgets like smart phones, digital cameras, and GPS devices continue to find their way into the outdoors, we have to find ways to protect them. One of the best, and most affordable options is the Pelican 1020 Micro Case ($12; pelican.com). This rugged, little snap-to-close plastic box is water resistant, dustproof and crushproof and would easily fit a digital camera or GPS. Inside is a rubber liner that provides extra padding and creates a watertight seal. Although the Micro Case is not designed to be taken underwater, it’s strong, durable and watertight enough to protect your gear from just about anything the outdoors can throw at you. It also comes with a carabiner and is available in seven sizes to fit all kinds of electronics.

Q. I have been reading Boys’ Life longer than most Scouts, but I saw the question about “I have a 20 degree bag…but still cold.” His problem might be that he is going to bed in the clothes that he has been wearing all day. Your body sweats, even in the coldest weather, and that moisture will keep you cold even in the warmest sleeping bag. My advice is to change into fresh dry clothes, at a minimum, change into dry socks and long johns. Try it. Dry means warm.
— Dry Dan, Indianapolis, Ind.

A. Listen here, Dan, you’re supposed to ask me a question. And I’m supposed to answer it! Are you trying to take over my job?! Just kidding. Seriously Dan, your advice to change into fresh, dry clothes before crawling into your sleeping bag for the night is spot on. Plus, it’ll help keep your sleeping bag from smelling like a sweaty locker room!

Q. Should I get a mountain bike or a road bike? Where I live the roads are bad and uneven and have potholes. I would prefer a mountain bike but I do go on casual, medium cycles and I like to go fast enough. Which one should I get?
— Indecisive Declan, Ireland

P.S. I don’t want a hybrid.

A. I think you should go with a mountain bike. Road bikes don’t do so well on rough roads, but the suspension on most mountain bikes will help swallow up the uncomfortable bumps and holes. Since it sounds like you will mostly be riding on the road, instead of knobby tires consider getting semi-slick mountain tires, which have a smoother (and faster) tread for road riding.

Q. Hello Gear Guy, My friends wear Under Armour with shorts and a T-shirt and say they are warm when it is 30 degrees out. Meanwhile I’m freezing with long johns and my uniform and a jacket on! I was considering buying Under Armour. They give me a choice of silk or polyester, which one keeps me warmer? Do you have suggestions of any other products besides Under Armour?
— Arctic Alex, Port Monmouth, N.J.

A. Yo Alex! I’d bet your “warm-blooded” friends might be talking up their warmth a little bit — makes them feel cooler, I guess. That said, a good base layer is indeed the key to keeping warm outdoors. If I were you, I would stick with polyester base layers rather than silk. Sure, silk will keep you warm, but it’s more expensive and usually harder to care for (some require hand-washing!). Most importantly, it’s not quite as quick to dry as polyester and slower to wick sweat away from your body. That makes polyester a better choice for a guy like you who is likely really active when you’re outdoors. While Under Armour does make nice base layers, there are plenty of other very good options out there. One of the most affordable yet high-performance base layers I know of is L.L. Bean’s Polartec Power Dry Base Layer, Midweight Crew top and pants ($35 each; llbean.com). Brands like Columbia, Mountain Hardwear, REI and Cabela’s also carry similar products.

Q. I can’t seem to find a good pair of convertible synthetic pants for hiking/backpacking. Could you point me to where I should look? I’m looking for something that doesn’t cost more than $45 to $50.
– Pantless Paul, Olney, Md.

A. We have just the pants you are looking for, Paul. The official BSA Centennial Switchbacks have it all: moisture-wicking and quick-drying nylon construction, UPF sun protection, lots of cargo pockets and other extras. The legs zip off to make perfect hiking shorts, and the price is right in your wheelhouse: $49.99. Find them at your local Scout shop or at scoutstuff.org.

If you love pancakes as much as Gear Guy does, then you’ll love Batter Blaster (About $5, batterblaster.com), the easiest pancake option we’ve ever used for camp cooking. It’s organic pancake and waffle batter inside a pressurized can. Just press the top and out shoots the batter. It’s super easy to make perfectly round and fluffy pancakes. One can makes about 28 four-inch pancakes. I’ve used it at home for Saturday morning breakfasts and brought it along on several camping trips. You do have to keep it refrigerated, so it might not be a good choice for backcountry trips.

Q. I’m shopping for a tent and am confused by the way the tents are labeled for weight. Most seem to list two weights, a trail weight and a packed weight. What’s the difference?
– Confused Carl, Missoula, Mont.

A. I’ll be happy to weigh in on this one. There is no industry standard on how tent manufacturers need to weigh and label their tents. So, consider the weight on a label as a rough estimate. Packed Weight (I’ve also seen it listed as Packaged Weight) refers to everything that comes with the tent when you buy it. That includes stuff sacks, stakes, maybe even a repair kit and a manual. Obviously you won’t want to bring all of that on the trail with you, so then you look at the Trail Weight (sometimes also listed as Minimum Weight). The thing is, the Trail Weight usually includes just the tent, rainfly and poles. No stakes. No ground cloth. So the Trail Weight isn’t all that accurate, either. Others list a Fastpack Weight, which includes just the rainfly and poles. All of the above is just a long-winded way to say the actual weight will be somewhere between Packed Weight and Trail Weight.

Q. I need (OK, I want) a helmet camera. I like the GoPros but I don’t know which model to get for filming while skiing. What would you recommend?
– Adam the Shutterbug, Springfield, Tenn.

A. I love the GoPro cameras, too! Which model you should buy depends on what you “need” from a small waterproof point-of-view video camera like this. If price is a concern, look online for a used or new entry-level GoPro SD Hero 170 (retailed for $100), which GoPro has stopped making. This one came with a helmet/head strap plus a couple of stick-on mounts, shoots standard-definition video and 5-megapixel photos, and is powered by two AAA batteries. It’s everything you need to get started shooting helmet-cam movies.

If your heart is set on capturing high-definition video, spend $180 and go with the GoPro HD Hero 960. HD Hero comes with a rechargeable battery, which will save you money in the long run. If money is no object, go with the top-of-the-line GoPro HD Helmet Hero ($300), which comes with more mounting options and is compatible with cool new accessories including the LCD BacPac, a little mountable video screen that lets you see what you’re filming in real time.

Q. How are the camping backpacks at Philmont made so lightweight?
– Peter Packer, Rochester, N.Y.

A. The internal-frame backpacks used at Philmont Scout Ranch in Cimarron, N.M., are special “program packs” built by Osprey Packs, one of the top backpack manufacturers in the world. Philmont uses the La Plata (weight approximately 4 lbs. 5 oz.) and the Escalante (5 lbs. 4 oz.). You can’t buy those in any stores, but they are based on Osprey’s popular and lightweight Aether backpacks. The most similar model available to consumers is the Osprey Aether 85 ($289; ospreypacks.com), which weighs in at 5 lbs. 1 oz. and uses lightweight yet durable nylon fabric and superlight aluminum rods to stabilize and transfer the pack load.

The external frame backpacks used at Philmont are the classic (yet recently redesigned) Kelty Tioga (5lbs. 14 oz.) with a lightweight aluminum frame. But it’s no longer manufactured, so you can’t buy it either. If you want this pack, you’ll have to find a used one for sale somewhere.

We were skeptical of this thing at first, but after our first summertime canoe outing we became real believers. The problem: where to keep your keys, cash and other small valuables when on the trail or on the water. The solution: HitchSafe ($80, hitchsafe.com), which attaches to any standard 2-inch receiver hitch on a truck, van or SUV and provides a small storage space locked securely by a combination of your choosing. Simple to install, difficult to crack!

Q. I have a 20-degree-rated sleeping bag that I use with a fleece liner, but in late fall and early winter, I’m still cold. I’ve tried everything — what should I do?
– Shivering Ethan, Esmond, R.I.

A. Since I don’t know everything about your situation, Ethan, I’m just gonna have to give you some basic advice.

If your sleeping bag is a basic rectangle shape, try a mummy-shaped bag instead. Those fit closer to your body, so there’s less room inside the bag for your body to heat up. The fleece liner is a good idea, as that can add some valuable extra warmth to your bag. You might also try sleeping in your clothes, and wear a stocking cap — lots of your body’s heat escapes through your head. Maybe try a down sleeping bag. No synthetic insulation can match its weight to warmth ratio (but it’ll be more expensive).

You mentioned your 20-degree bag not being warm enough. Those ratings are just a general guide to what temperature you could sleep comfortably in. If you’re a cold sleeper, and it sounds as if you are, go for a sleeping bag that’s rated for much colder temps, like a 0-degree bag.

Finally, make sure you are sleeping on a sleeping pad, because the cold ground can quickly suck valuable heat from your body. Much like sleeping bags, pads are rated for colder temperatures, and using one would definitely help you sleep warmer.

Sometimes when you’re backpacking, the last thing you need is something else to carry. So leave the bulky hand-held global positioning system unit at home and take along the Foretrex 301 ($150, garmin.com). This slim, wrist-mounted GPS receiver is rugged and waterproof and will keep you pointed in the right direction. For an extra $50 or so, the Foretrex 401 adds an electronic compass, barometric altimeter and a few other features. Remember, though, no technology is perfect. Never hit the trail without a good ol’ map and compass — and be sure you know how to use them. They’ll never run out of batteries.

Q. Yo Gear Guy! This weekend when I was setting up my two-man tent to air-dry, one of the fiberglass poles broke. Any places that I could go to get a replacement?
– Half-a-pole Adam, Spokane, Wash.

Dear Mr. Half. First off, good for you for airing out your tent (cue applause). Taking care of your gear is key for making it last a long time. Now, there are a couple tent pole-specific tips I’d like to offer: When you’re putting up or taking down collapsible tent poles, always work from the center out. So for instance, don’t try to collapse the pole from one end first. That’ll put too much stress on the elastic inside the pole and can cause it to break. Next, always try to keep your poles out of the dirt or sand. That stuff can get inside the pole joints and cause problems too.

Obviously your immediate issue is getting a new pole. Your best choice is to contact the original manufacturer of your tent. You should be able to find a customer-service email or toll-free number on the company’s website. If not, try going to the shop where you bought the tent. They might have info on how to reach the manufacturer. When you do get in touch, be sure to mention which exact tent model you have and which pole is broken. If that’s unsuccessful, you might also try TentPole Technologies, LLC. (www.polesforyou.com). Prices for replacement poles seem to range from $5 to $35 for fiberglass poles, depending of course on the diameter and length of the pole you need. Aluminum poles are roughly twice as expensive. While I can’t vouch for the company directly, it does seem like they’d be able to help.

SOL stands for “Survive Outdoors Longer” and that’s the idea with the new SOL Escape Bivvy ($50, adventuremedicalkits.com). It’s part emergency space blanket, like those shiny, crinkly blankets designed to reflect your body heat and keep you warm in an emergency such as getting lost in the woods overnight. It weighs just 8 ounces and packs down as small as a Nalgene water bottle so the Escape Bivvy fits easily in any daypack. But unlike most space blankets, which are clammy and sweaty to sleep in, this one is waterproof and breathable. That means experienced backpackers who like to travel fast and light can use this as a minimalist bivvy sack (part tent/part sleeping bag) and still get a comfy night’s rest.

You hop off the chairlift and slide over to the edge. It’s the steepest slope you’ve ever seen. Butterflies flutter in your stomach. But as you push yourself over the edge and into the fresh snow, fear is replaced by fun. Whether you’ll be going skiing or snowboarding,  Gear Guy fills you in on all the  gear you need, plus a couple of tips and tricks that’ll have you shredding in no time.

Cheap vs. Steep: “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals online.

HELMETS

News flash: Wearing a helmet on the slopes is cool. It means you’re smart and that you’re charging hard enough to need a brain bucket. Wear only an ASTM- or CE-approved helmet. Some helmets come with added ventilation, removable earpads, even built-in headphones. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

• Cheap: Salomon Drift Kid ($60; salomon.com)
• Steep: Ride Duster ($100; ridesnowboards.com)

GOGGLES

Goggles are meant to keep blowing snow and wind out of your eyes so you can concentrate on shredding the hill. The fit should be snug with no big gaps between your face and goggle where air can enter. Also, make sure the top of the goggle frame meets the helmet as closely as possible. Different lens tints work better in different snow conditions. Pick a darker lens for very bright days; yellow or rose tints work well in lower light. Some goggles even come with interchangeable lenses.

• Cheap: Oakley E Frame ($39; oakley.com)
• Steep: Smith Stance ($90; smithoptics.com)

BASE LAYER

If you’re wearing a regular cotton T-shirt as a base layer, you must be stuck in the 1980s! What you need next to your skin is a quick-drying fabric like a synthetic blend or wool, which wicks moisture away from your skin while keeping you warm. A zippered mock T gives you the maximum ability to regulate your body temp. Should fit snug, but not too snug.

• Cheap: Polarmax PMX Team Shirt and Tech Pant ($25 each; polarmax.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Longsleeve Crewe and Legging ($60 each; icebreaker.com)

MID LAYER

If you’ve learned anything from Gear Guy about dressing for the outdoors, it’s this: Wear layers! If you get hot, take a layer off. Get cold, put one on. Fleece or down pullovers and jackets make great mid layers. Should fit relatively close to the body but with enough room to move.

• Cheap: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Cloudlayer fleece pullover ($20; eddiebauer.com)
• Steep: The North Face Vesty Vest ($89; thenorthface.com)

JACKET

This outer layer protects you from the wind, snow, sleet, etc. Look for a jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Some come with built-in insulation or removable layers depending on the weather. A few zippered pockets are nice, but you don’t need too many gadgets. Should be roomy for mobility and to accommodate extra layers, but not so loose that it’ll get caught on the ski lift.

• Cheap: Columbia Rugged Peak Jacket ($115; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia 3-in-1 Snowshot Jacket ($339; patagonia.com)

PANTS

Eventually, you’re gonna fall. And when you do, you’ll need a good pair of waterproof/breathable pants to keep you dry and warm. Wear them loose, but not baggy, for mobility.

• Cheap: Columbia Bugaboo Tech Pant ($85; columbia.com)
• Steep: Sierra Designs Rad Pants ($199; sierradesigns.com)

GLOVES

Look for gloves that are warm and waterproof/breathable. They need to fit tight enough so you have plenty of dexterity with your fingers and no unnecessary bulk. Leather palms can help with better feel, too.

• Cheap: Kombi Gore Method Jr. ($50; kombisports.com)
• Steep: Outdoor Research HighCamp ($79; outdoorresearch.com)

SOCKS

Wear a pair of mid-weight synthetic or merino wool socks — never cotton tube socks because they won’t keep your feet warm once they’re sweaty and wet. Make sure your socks are close-fitting because if they’re too loose, they’ll bunch up and cause blisters.

• Cheap: Lorpen Kid’s Merino Ski ($15 for 2 pair; lorpen.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Kids Snow Mid Over the Calf ($15; icebreaker.com)

SKIS

You’ll spend somewhere between $350 to $900 for a pair of skis. In general, look for skis that come up to about your nose or forehead. For a variety of all-mountain type skiing, pick a ski with a waist of about 70 to 80 millimeters and a soft or medium flex, which is best for beginner and intermediate skiers.

• Cheap: Salomon Shogun Jr. ($275; salomon.com)
• Steep: K2 Bad Seed ($550; k2skis.com)

SKI BOOTS

Well-fitting boots are key to maintaining control of your skis. Look for four-buckle boots with customizable features for fine-tuning a better fit. The flex of your boots is also important. Beginners should look for a less stiff boot. Ski boots should fit one-half size to a full size smaller than street shoes.

• Cheap: Nordica GP TJ ($185; nordicausa.com)
• Steep: Tecnica Bodacious 65 Jr. ($375; tecnicausa.com)

SKI BINDINGS

Bindings are the connection between you and your skis. Step in and they click as they lock in. When you wipe out, the binding releases and tiny brakes pop down to stop your skis from skiing away from you! How easily they release can be adjusted; most beginners should choose a low-release setting. Most new skis are paired with bindings and will cost an extra $150 to $300.

SNOWBOARD

Expect to spend between $250 and $500 for a new snowboard. Your board should come up to right around your chin. You also want to make sure the board is wide enough so that your feet don’t hang over the edge when you turn. The next thing to consider is board stiffness. Softer flex is best for beginners because it’s easier to ride. More stiffness helps advanced riders on steeper slopes.

• Cheap: Rome Label Rocker ($260; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: Lib Tech Lib Ribber ($349; lib-tech.com)

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

Make sure your boots are comfortable from the first time you try them on. They should fit snug in the heel and forefoot with some wiggle room for your toes. For starters try a half-size smaller than your street shoes. In general, entry-level boots have traditional shoe lacing; higher-end boots use a tightening system that lets you easily dial in the tightness with a knob.

• Cheap: Ride Orion ($129; ridesnowboards.com)
• Steep: DC Judge ($270; store.dcshoes.com)

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Your board is attached to your feet with bindings. There are two types: straps and step-in. Strap bindings are the most popular and are the best choice. They can be cinched down super-tight using the ratchet straps, while step-ins lock you in just by stepping down on the binding.

• Cheap: Rome Shift ($120; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: GNU Park ($239; gnu.com)

WINTER SPORTS TIPS

• Stay Hydrated. You might not be sweating and you might not feel thirsty, but your body probably is. Cold weather and active winter sports can dehydrate you quickly, so be sure to drink enough water while skiing or riding. Some guys even wear hydration packs to keep liquids close by.

• Take a Lesson. No question, the fastest way to get past the beginner blues is to take a ski or snowboard lesson or two. Most ski resorts offer lessons.

• Shop in Summer. One of the best ways to get a good deal on ski or snowboard gear is to shop during the off-season — most snow shops have good sales starting in March. You can sometimes find quality used gear in your local newspaper classified ads or online.

• Rent First. If you’re unsure about what type of skis or board would be best for you, rent your gear. Most shops have rentals and demo equipment, and some might even offer full season leasing of a whole setup for around $150 to $200.

Q. Are waterproof bags necessary or will garbage bags work just as well?
—Curious Keith, Muskegon, Mich.

A. This really depends on what you’re doing, Keith. If you’re throwing away a bunch of stinky trash, then a garbage bag is totally the call. But I’m assuming you’re really asking if garbage bags will also work for backpacking or canoeing or some such. The answer is yes and no.

For trail-based activities, like backpacking somewhere kinda rainy, garbage bags are actually super handy. They can be used as a waterproof pack liner (to keep your sleeping bag and clothing dry) or as a rain cover for your backpack. They are lightweight, cheap, super packable and can even provide emergency shelter in a pinch. Just be sure to get the heavy-duty, super thick plastic bags like the ones you find at Home Depot and hardware stores. Double bagging (lining one bag inside the other) is even more effective as trash bags can puncture relatively easily. For holding smaller loads like just a down sleeping bag or specific clothing, some experienced hikers tend to use smaller, narrower trash compactor bags which are thick but not as large as conventional trash bags.

Now if you’re wondering if a garbage bag is a good choice for carrying your gear on water-based outings like canoeing or rafting, the answer is no. Plastic bags can and will eventually get puncture holes, which let water seep inside. And if you capsize or if your trash bag full of clothing and gear sits in the bottom of a wet canoe for hours, there’s an excellent chance your stuff will be soaked. For this type of outing a waterproof drysack with a roll-top closure is really the best choice because it can take a full dunking and still keep the stuff inside dry. These type of dry bags range in cost from about $10 to $75 depending on size and thickness of the bag. Some good quality brand names to shop for are Sea to Summit (seatosummit.com) and SealLine (cascadedesigns.com/sealline)

Getting a campfire going on the trail can be a real challenge, especially when dry kindling is nowhere to be found. That’s why we love the Light My Fire’s Tinder-on-a-Rope ($2.50, lightmyfire.com). This stick of tinder comes from natural pine/fatwood stumps that have a resin content of 80 percent. It’s that resin that makes this tinder light quickly and burn hot. Whenever you’re ready to light a fire, simply use your knife to shave a few fresh pieces off the Tinder stick. Once you have a small pile of shavings, light your fire and you’re good to go!