BoysLife - Outdoors

Q. Hey Gear Guy, this question has been nagging me for so long: If I’m going backpacking should I wear boots with high ankles or ones with low ankles?
—Puzzled John, Nashville, Tenn.

A. If you’re going on a true backpacking trip and carrying a fully loaded pack, you’ll be more prone to rolling your ankle on unstable/uneven ground. So you should be wearing boots with plenty of ankle support. The higher-cut boots also protect your ankles from sharp rocks and thorns and keep you drier in wet environments. If you’re carrying a very light pack or just doing a day hike, low-top hiking shoes are fine. They are going to be lighter weight, more breathable and more comfortable.

Paperwork? For a backpacking trip? When it comes to backpacking, keeping good paperwork is part of Being Prepared. You’ll need a trip plan, an emergency plan and a duty roster.

Download our templates below to help you get started.

TRIP PLAN

Once your crew has agreed on an itinerary, write down your plans, and leave copies with your parents and a handful of other responsible adults.

• File No. 1: Trip Plan, Microsoft Word: Modify it yourself to fit your trip.
• File No. 2: Trip Plan, PDF: Print our file and fill in the details for your trip by hand.

EMERGENCY RESPONSE PLAN

Before you leave for any trip, try to anticipate what could go wrong. Altitude sickness? Flooding? Avalanche? A serious injury? Provide copies to a handful of responsible adults who won’t be going on the trip.

• File No. 1: Emergency Response Plan, Microsoft Word: Modify it yourself to fit your trip.
• File No. 2: Emergency Response Plan, PDF: Print our file and fill in the details for your trip by hand.

DUTY ROSTER

Your duty roster should help you organize the responsibilities of each member — or each patrol — as you progress along your trek. Come up with a list of duties (water purification, cooking, cleanup, etc.) along with a list of the Scouts who will perform them. That way everybody knows from the start what they’re in for.

• File No. 1: Duty Roster, Microsoft Excel: Type in your own job names and the names of who will perform them.
• File No. 2: Duty Roster, PDF: Print out file and write down the names of the jobs and the Scouts by hand.

Q. Please help, Gear Guy! I like to camp and hike but I always get slowed down by my heavy tent. Can you help me find a lightweight AND affordable backpacking tent?
—Tentless Joseph, Eugene, Ore.

A. If you plan on backpacking regularly, you ought to be shopping for a lightweight two-person tent that weighs around five pounds or so. Sure you can go lots lighter, but the lighter you go, the more you’ll have to spend. One way to make sure your pack stays light is to share the load with your tentmate—he carries the poles and fly; you carry the tent body. That way, you each are carrying just a couple of pounds. Simple.

O.K., now for some recommendations. Here are a few lightweight tents that might fit your budget:

• Mountain Hardwear Drifter 2 ($165; mountainhardwear.com) This new freestanding tent weighs in at 4 lbs. 12. oz., has lots of good ventilation and a large vestibule.
• Eureka! Forte SQ 2 ($130; eurekatent.com) The Forte is a new A-frame-style tent that’s very affordable for its 4 lbs. 8 oz. weight.
• Big Agnes Lynx Pass 2 ($200; bigagnes.com) The 5 lb. 8 oz.-Lynx Pass is a cool freestanding tent with the option to pitch the fly as an awning using hiking poles or sticks.

A novice fisherman will hit the water armed only with the knowledge of an overhand knot. A real angler wouldn’t dare venture out with such a limited arsenal.

Different situations call for different knots. The knots needed for tying fishing line to a hook are different from the knots needed to join two sections of line together.

To be prepared for anything, learn these knots before you hit the water.

IMPROVED CLINCH KNOT
(for tying line to a hook)

1. Thread the line through the eye of the hook, then make 5 to 7 wraps around the line with the loose end.

2. Thread the loose end of the line through the loop closest to the eye, then back around inside the loose section of line.

3. Pull both ends of the line until tight.

4. Trim the loose end of the line if necessary.

PALOMAR KNOT
(for tying line to a hook)

1. Double your line to make a loop, then push the loop through the eye of your hook.

2. Tie a loose overhand knot.

3. Pass the loop around the end of the hook and pull on the line to tighten.

TURLE KNOT
(for tying thin line to a small hook)

1. Run the line through the eye of the hook, then tie a loose double overhand knot in the end of the line.

2. Pass the open loop over the hook and tighten the whole thing so that the loop tightens around the eye.

BLOOD KNOT
(for joining two sections of line together)

1. Line up the ends of each line together for several inches, then wrap the first line around the second at least five times.

2. Wrap the second around the first at least five times, and bring both loose ends back to the middle between the two lines.

3. Pull tight on each line until the knot is snug.

DOUBLE SURGEON’S LOOP
(for forming a loop in the end of a line)

1. Fold over the end of the line to make a double line, then tie a single overhand knot.

2. Pass the loop through the hole in the overhand knot one more time.

3. Moisten the knot and tighten.

WIRE LINE TO MONO KNOT
(for attaching wire line to monofilament)

1. Fold four inches of wire line back over itself to form a bend at the end of the line.

2. Run your monofilament line through the middle of the bend, then wrap it once around the bottom of the bend.

3. With the monofilament, make seven close turns around both lines.

4. Pass the loose end of the monofilament above the center strand of monofilament and below the wire line, then pull snug.

TUCKED SHEET BEND
(for attaching line to a leader loop, or snelled hook to the line)

1. Pass the end of the line through the loop, then make a simple sheet bend knot.

2. Pass the end of the line back through the loop of the sheet bend.

3. Tighten until snug.

SNELLING A HOOK
(for attaching monofilament to a hook)

1. Pass the end of the line through the eye of the hook twice, creating a loop that hangs alongside the hook.

2. Wrap the loop around the hook, forming tight coils, 5 to 10 times.

3. Holding the coils in place with one finger, pull the line up until the loop is snug under the coils.

Q. I have a tent but I don’t have a bag for it. What should I put it in?
— Bagless Joshua, Perrysburg, Ohio

A. Your best bet is to get a drysack for your tent. Roll your tent up tight and get a rough measurement of how wide and long it is. Then, buy a drysack that’s a bit larger than that size. There’s nothing more annoying than trying to squeeze a tent into a too-tight bag. In fact, I know a couple outdoorsmen who actually get rid of their tent stuffsack and use drysacks instead because it’s so much easier to stuff the tent and poles inside. Plus, the drysack protects your tent from rain or an accidental dunking in the water, ensuring that you always have a dry place to sleep on the trail. You should be able to find a good waterproof drysack at your local outfitter shop or online for about $15 to $20. Be sure to get one with a rolltop closure because those are the most watertight.

Summer is mosquito season. So what better time to tell you about our new favorite insect repellent. It’s called Coleman SkinSmart ($3.49 to 6.49, www.colemanrepellents.com) and it’s notable because it’s made without DEET, which is a very strong smelling—and very effective—chemical found in many repellents. Besides being stinky, DEET is notorious for eating away at plastics and discoloring (and, at times, dissolving) some performance outdoor fabrics, like those found in some GORE-TEX rainjackets and tents. Instead, SkinSmart uses something called IR3535, an odorless chemical that, based on our field testing, works every bit as well as other DEET products we’ve used in the past. And we’ve been testing this stuff in some pretty darn buggy spots with folks who are typically mosquito magnets. SkinSmart works like a charm and doesn’t ruin your other outdoor gear in the process. It’s available in a 6-oz. aerosol spray can ($6.49) or a 5-oz.Go Ready spray pen ($3.49).

Q. Guy Gear, I want a boat that is less than 8 feet and no smaller than a five-horsepower motor. The problem: My budget is $500. Do you have any ideas?
– Corey Thies, Norwalk, Calif.

A. Hey Corey, well your budget is definitely going to make this a tough one. You won’t find a new boat with a 5hp outboard motor for under $500 — if you do, let me know because I want one too!

Anyway, I’d say your best bet is to scan the classifieds and online sites like craigslist.com for deals on used boats. Just for fun, I checked out those sites this morning and there really wasn’t anything to be had for under $500.

Depending on what you want a boat for, I think you should consider buying a used canoe or kayak. There are lots of good used deals out there for way less than $500. And if you’re hoping to do some fishing, it’s tough to beat a kayak. Without the loud motor you can sneak up on the fish and access spots that are so shallow and tight that guys with motorboats couldn’t even think of going there. And guess what: that’s often where the fish are hiding out! Some of the higher-end kayaks also come with motor-mounts so if you find a cheap outboard somewhere down the line you could hook it up to your kayak. Good luck with your bargain hunt. Let us know how you do.

Q. Dear Gear Guy, My son and I are making plans for his first official summer camp as a Boy Scout. He has a problem and hopes you can help. Could you recommend a quality non-inflatable sleeping pad to help with that stiff back he wakes up with every morning after camping?
–Mike’s Mom, Wichita, Kan.

A. O.K., so your son has a stiff back in the morning when he wakes up. There are some good non-inflatable sleep pad options. My favorite is the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite ($30-$40; thermarest.com). It’s a closed-cell foam pad that weighs just about 10 to 15 ounces (depending on which size you get) and is perfect for backpacking but would work well at summer camp too. It’s not exactly plush so I can’t guarantee your son’s back won’t be stiff. Another more cushy option is the traditional Egg Crate Mattress Pad ($18; campmor.com). Though it’s a little bulky for backpacking, paired with a nice blanket, the egg crate would make a nice bedroll for summer camp. Happy Z-Z-Zs to your son.

Gear Guy presents a special video blog of the cool new take on the classic Case Knife Hobo.

• How to stay clean on the trail

It’s important to keep your gear clean and in good working order. You’ve probably heard the phrase, “Take care of your gear and it’ll take care of you.” Well, it’s true and we’ll show you exactly how to do it so you’ll be ready for your next adventure.

HIKING BOOTS

It’s important to clean and dry out your boots after every trip. Rinse them in cool water and use a soft-bristled brush to brush the grime off, paying special attention to the seams and stitching.

If they are super dirty, you might try a cleaner like Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel ($8; nikwax.com) or Granger’s G-Max Footwear Gel Cleaner ($6; grangers-usa.com).When your boots are looking especially manky, you may want to use a spray or rub-on conditioner like Granger’s Paste Wax ($6; grangers-usa.com).

Finally, if the boots aren’t shedding water the way they should, try water-proofing them with a product like Tectron Water Repellent for boots and shoes ($6.50; rei.com) or ReviveX Leather Spray Water Repellent ($8; mcnett.com).

TENTS

After every outing, check your tent for damage and sweep out the inside to remove all dirt, sand and debris. If it’s dirty, spot- clean using a simple sponge with cold water and nondetergent soap (don’t use dishwashing liquid, bleach, stain sticks, etc.) and NEVER machine-wash your tent.

Also avoid putting your tent away when it is damp. It’s one thing to stuff it inside your backpack because it’s raining on the trail, but once you’re home be sure to let it air dry. If you’ve indeed packed it away wet, there’s a good chance it’s stinking from mildew. If that’s the case, try to treat it with an odor eliminator like McNett MiraZyme ($5; mcnett.com). You can also try a water solution mixed with 5 percent hydrogen peroxide.

If your tent is leaking, seam-seal the floor seams and the rainfly with a product like McNett Seam Grip ($7.25; mcnett.com). Finally, waterproof the fly and the bottom of the tent with a waterproofer like Granger’s Tent Waterproofer ($10; grangers-usa.com) or Nikwax Tent and Gear Solarproof waterproofing spray ($18; nikwax.com), which also protects the tent from damaging UV rays.

If you’ve got plenty of storage room, you might even consider storing your tent poles fully assembled to put less stress on the shock-cords inside.

SLEEPING BAGS

After every outing, air out your sleeping bag. And, if possible, store it on a hanger in a closet. If you don’t have space for that, store it in a large, loose bag NOT compressed in a stuffsack. Then, before each camping season, wash your bag. This will help restore its loft (puffiness) and its warmth. It’s best to machine-wash your bag in a front load washer because it’s gentler than a top-loader; but NEVER dry clean a down bag as it’ll reduce the warmth of the down inside. And don’t use regular detergent. Instead, throw it in the wash with something like ReviveX Down Cleaner ($9; mcnett.com) or Nikwax Down Wash ($9; nikwax.com), which cleans the down and boosts its water repellency too. Be sure to run it through the rinse cycle twice. For synthetic bags, try a cleaner like Granger’s Performance Wash ($9; grangers-usa.com).

FIRST-AID KITS

Before and after every outing, check your first-aid kit. Make sure it’s clean and dry. If any medicines and ointments have expired, replace them. For a list of what ought to be in your kit, check out our first- aid kit ingredients list at boyslife.org/firstaidkit.

COOKING POTS & PANS

This may seem like it goes without saying: Thoroughly clean your pots and pans after every outing and before you store them for the season. Nobody wants year-old omelet residue in his breakfast. When storing Dutch ovens, place a paper towel or piece of newspaper inside to collect any moisture, and prop open the lid with a folded-over paper towel to let air circulate and prevent the oven from getting a rancid smell.

CAMP STOVES

After every outing, check your stove for damage, missing parts and any fuel leaks. At least once a season, plan on doing full maintenance on your stove. One of the simplest ways is with a cleaning kit from the manufacturer, such as this MSR Annual Stove Maintenance Kit ($15; cascadedesigns.com/MSR).

Don’t leave fuel in your stove in the off-season either. Instead, disconnect the fuel bottle and let the gas burn all the way out. If your stove has a plunger for pumping the fuel, put a little 3-in-1 oil on the pump cup. Also, check all of the seals and treat the o-rings with petroleum jelly (to prevent cracking) before storing it for the season.

RAINWEAR AND SHELL JACKETS

If your rainwear isn’t really keeping you dry anymore or if it’s wetting out instead of repelling water, it’s time to clean it and, possibly, renew its water-repellency. A jacket’s DWR (durable water repellent) coating can wear thin, and dirt and grime can clog the membranes of Gore-Tex, eVent and other waterproof/breathable fabrics, making
them not-so breathable anymore.

Often, just a good washing paired with about 45 minutes in the dryer on low heat and/or a quick once-over with a warm iron is enough to revive your jacket. Most important, read—and follow—the care instructions inside your jacket. Some conventional detergents and fabric softeners may clog the membranes, so use a specialized treatment like Nikwax Tech Wash ($9.30; nikwax.com) or one that cleans and renews the jacket’s waterproof finish simultaneously like Granger’s One Step Wash and Waterproofer ($15; grangers-usa.com). If you want to boost the DWR even further, try a spray-on waterproofer such as ReviveX Spray-on Water Repellent for Outerwear ($8; mcnett.com). It’s important to note that Gore-Tex warns against using wash-in waterproofers with their jackets and recommends spray-on products only.

• How to keep your gear clean and ready

Clean your room! Do the dishes! Wash behind your ears! As much as it pains me to say this: Your mom’s actually. Keeping clean is a great habit to have both at home and on the trail.

Here are some tips to make it easier.

BABY WIPES AREN’T JUST FOR BABIES

Many outdoorsmen I know carry a small pack of baby wipes on the trail. They’re lightweight and contain just enough liquid to feel refreshing on your skin.

WASH YOUR HANDS

Do it religiously after you use the bathroom, before you cook a meal and prior to eating. Warm water and soap is best, but on the trail a gel-based hand sanitizer is often easier. Choose one with an alcohol concentration of at least 60 percent so it’ll kill all the microbes that can collect on your skin and make you sick. Be sure to rub the gel into your hands for about 20 seconds or until dry. Check out Purell Instant Hand Sanitizer (about $2; purell.com).

BRUSH YOUR TEETH

Home. Not home. You still need to clean your chompers. Bring along a toothbrush and use it. If you’re camping with your troop, consider sharing a tube of toothpaste between friends. And if you’re really an ounce-counter (a hiker who is fanatical about ultralight backpacking) cut off the handle of the toothbrush to save weight. Need one? Check out the Boy Scout Toothbrush ($2.59; scoutstuff.org).

BATH TIME

Sure, being dirty can be fun for a few days, but if you’re sharing a tent with fellow Scouts, pay attention to your stink factor. When it’s bath time, get a pot of water and scrub yourself down.

Use a biodegradable soap like the liquid Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soap ($2.50; drbronner.com)—I like the peppermint scent—or Sea to Summit Pocket Soap ($5; seatosummit.com): little, thin, single-use leaves of soap. If you’re really homesick, try the solar-heated hangable Sea to Summit Pocket Shower ($28; seatosummit.com), which gives you about seven minutes of warm showering. Finally, my favorite: swimming. Nothing feels better than a quick dip after a long day on the trail.

DRY OFF

Obviously you need a towel to dry off after bath time, but it’s silly to bring a big ol’ thick towel from home. Besides being heavy, they’re slow to dry. A better bet is a lightweight, quick-dry towel like the MSR PackTowl Ultralite ($14 to $30; cascadedesigns.com/MSR) or REI Multi-Towel Lite ($12.50 to $26.50; rei.com).

PUT ON CLEAN UNDERWEAR

If you have room in your backpack, bring along an extra set of underwear and clean clothes for wearing around camp. Once you do your sponge bath or swim, it’s nice to change into clean (or sort of clean) clothes. It also gives your trail clothes a chance to air out and dry overnight.

WASHING MACHINE-A-GO-GO

For longer backpacking trips, you can wash your clothes by putting them in a drybag (turn it inside-out) or plastic trash bag with a little water and soap (Dr. Bronner’s works great). Seal it up, then hike with it attached to the outside of your pack. Or simply shake it vigorously for 10 minutes or so. Drain the soapy water and refill for the rinse cycle.

DISH DUTY

If you’re on dish duty, use a biodegradable soap like Campsuds ($3.50; campsuds.com), Dr. Bronner’s or Sea to Summit Pocket Soap. One simple way to do dishes is with a portable sink like the Kelty Kitchen Sink ($46; kelty.com), which comes with a retractable drying rack. Remember: You don’t need purified water to wash your camp dishes as long as you let your clean dishes air-dry before using them again because most microorganisms can’t survive in a dry environment. You can even use river water and a handful of sand to scrub the pots like a Brillo pad.

WIPE YOUR FEET

Use a small folded-over towel as a kind of welcome mat for your tent to collect dirt before it gets tracked inside. Make a rule that you and your tent mates must take off your boots before getting inside.

AIR IT OUT

You are no doubt familiar with the sleeping bag stank syndrome. After several days of hiking hard and going to bed without a bath (you didn’t read Bath Time, above, obviously) your sleeping bag and tent often stink. So when you can, let your sleeping bag and tent air out in the fresh air before breaking camp each day.

Q. Hi Gear Guy. One time, I saw a TV ad about a special type of garment—particularly for athletes—that turns your sweat into energy. Is there really such a product and will it work?
—Curious Josh, Allison Park, Pa.

A. Thanks for the question, Josh. I looked it up on the internet and found the X-Bionic company, which manufacturers these super-tight garments that they do indeed claim turns sweat into energy. They have shirts, underwear, tights, socks—and all of it is expensive. A basic T-shirt starts at $100! Anyway, like you, I was naturally skeptical about this product. So I contacted my good friend and big-time exercise scientist John Porcari, Ph.D., from the University of Wisconsin, La Crosse Exercise and Health Program. Here’s what he had to say about X-Bionic and their claims:

“Turns sweat into energy is just a catchy phrase, as that is an impossible task. What the garment really does is to potentially conserve energy by helping to remove sweat from the skin’s surface, thus your body cools itself more easily (which conserves energy). Also because it is tight, it helps to control extraneous muscular movements, which makes the muscles more efficient.”

So, Josh, I’d say skip the $100 super-duper-tee and just get yourself a good ol’ moisture-wicking tee-shirt for $20 bucks (like the Under Armour Tech Tee; www.underarmour.com) and pound a couple handfuls of trail mix—that should give you plenty of energy for the trail!

Aaron McAlexander, 24, has fished his entire life: His first memory is of fishing around a stump on a lake near his home. Today he is a collegiate bass fishing champ and master caster with the Recreational Boating & Fishing Foundation. He practices casting an hour a day.

“It’s the only way to get better,” McAlexander says.

McAlexander uses a casting technique called The Shooter that can break a light bulb from 30 feet away using a fishing pole, some line and a lure. (Check out cool video of his trick at boyslife.org/casting)

Start with these basics from McAlexander, and you could soon be casting like a pro.

THE SHOOTER

Great For: Fishing Boat Docks and Brush Piles

“Shooting is basically an old crappie fishing technique,” McAlexander says. “I just took it and went into the bass world with it.”

Step 1: Lower the lure about half the distance between the rod tip and reel.

Step 2: If you’re using a spinning reel, flip open the bail, which is the thin wire part of the reel that is flipped from one side to the other. Hold the line with your dominant hand, and grasp the lure with the opposite hand.

Step 3: Draw the rod tip down and pull the lure back to your chest. You can even shoulder the rod like a rifle.

Step 4: Aim straight down the rod, then release the lure with your fingers and point straight down the rod with the finger that was holding your line. The line will come off the spool and propel the lure forward.

OVERHEAD CAST

Great For: Distance

“You can really get a lot of power behind an overhead cast,” McAlexander says. “It’s very accurate too, because you’re looking where you’re casting.”

Step 1: With your thumb, hold down the button on your bait casting reel and bring the rod back.

Step 2: Bring the rod forward and release your thumb. The bait will drag your line out.

Step 3: Push the button back down with your thumb to slow your spool. “If you don’t do it efficiently, you can end up with a backlash (line tangle),” McAlexander says.

PITCHING

Great For: Casting 10 Yards or Closer

“I like to use pitching for up-close, finesse fishing,” says McAlexander.

Step 1: While holding the rod straight up, let out enough line so that the lure comes down to the reel.

Step 2: Hold down the button on your reel, holding the spool steady. Grab your lure with your opposite hand. (Watch out for the hook!)

Step 3: Drop the rod tip down, bringing back your lure while keeping the line taut.

Step 4: Raise the rod tip in one swooping motion, pulling the lure out of your other hand. “That will drop the lure wherever your rod tip is pointing.”

Step 5: Control the distance by slowing the line with your thumb.

FLIPPING

Great For: Casting Into Weed Mats

“Flipping is a little bit faster than pitching, but it’s even shorter range,” McAlexander says. “It’s extremely effective, especially around shallow docks with mixed timber and vegetation.”

Step 1: Pull out a lot of slack line, estimating the distance to your target. Keep your thumb on the spool or keep your reel engaged.

Step 2: Start the lure swinging, then let the lure go out with the slack line. Do not let your thumb off the spool.

Step 3: “You can sit there, jiggle it a couple seconds in that spot, then pull your slack line out and do the same thing for the next spot.”

SIDEARM CAST

Great For: Windy Conditions

“If it’s windy outside, you want to keep your lure low,” McAlexander says. “With a straight overhead cast, the wind will really throw your lure around and reduce your distance. With the sidearm cast, you can skip your lure across the water and under cover.”

Step 1: Bring your rod back at your side, holding the button and using a circular swooping motion.

Step 2: Snap your wrist forward, releasing the button, which releases the line.

THE REEL WORLD

Spincaster: This is the classic push-button reel most people start with. McAlexander says it lets “you get the casting motion down before you have to figure out the mechanics of the reel.”

Baitcaster: This push-button reel gives you more control. To cast, you push the button down with your thumb; it locks in place. Then you hold the spool steady with your thumb until you cast. After you cast, you gradually apply more pressure to the spool to slow the speed of the lure as it gets close to its target. McAlexander likes to use this reel to get fish out of thick cover. He says it’s also good for casting spinner bait, jigs, crankbaits and swimbait lures.

Spinning reel: This is an open-face reel that has a spool of line parallel to the rod. McAlexander likes to use this reel to cast light crankbaits, Texas rigs, drop-shot rigs, jerkbaits and weightless soft plastics.

Q. Hi Gear Guy, Some of my friends have Camelbaks, the backpacks with the built-in water bottle. I would love to have one for camps but my dad says they are too expensive. Is there any cheap alternative?
—Thirsty Allan, Nashwauk, Minn.

A. Great question, Thirsty. While Camelbak-type backpacks equipped with hydration bladders can be expensive, there is indeed a more affordable alternative. You can simply buy just the reservoir (that’s the thing that holds the water and serves it up via a drinking tube) by itself and then slip it inside the daypack or backpack you already have. The new ones don’t leak much so the other stuff in your pack shouldn’t get wet, and you can just feed the hose out through where the zipper meets at the top. Some daypacks are already “hydration-compatible” so check and see if yours is. There are several different brands of hydration packs out there that make very good reservoirs and you should be able to get one for as little as $17 to $30 bucks.

• Camelbak OMEGA, 1.5- to 3-liter reservoirs (from $25 to $30; www.camelbak.com)
• Nalgene Encapsul Big Bore, 1.5- to 3-liter reservoirs ($18 to $20; www.nalgene-outdoor.com)
• Hydrapak Reversible Reservoir II, 1.5- to 3-liter reservoirs ($17-$30; www.hydrapak.com)

Readers are always writing in asking about what’s the best knife for the money. Well, there are plenty of good options out there but one of my favorites right now is the Byrd Robin ($28; byrdknife.com ). It’s a lock-back folder with a 2.5-inch stainless steel long blade (serrated or plain edge) and weighs just 2.2 ounces. The lock-back function is solid. You can open it one-handed and, once locked out, the blade is solid. No wobbling back and forth at all. The handle is made of molded FRN plastic that’s strong and grippy. It also comes with a pocket clip and a hole for a lanyard so—hopefully— you won’t lose your new knife. Most importantly, the Robin just feels good in your hand. Here’s another little factoid: Byrd knives are actually manufactured by Spyderco, which makes super high-quality, durable—and sometimes funky-looking—knives. Byrd is just their entry-level line, and perfect for Scouts like you.

Hiking and backpacking should be grand adventure, not hard work. But if you are laboring down the trail stooped under a heavy pack, all you can think about is putting one foot in front of the other.

It doesn’t have to be that way. With a bit of know-how you can carry what you need and reduce your pack weight by half, if not more. And you can do this without roughing it or compromising safety.

In fact, done right, “fastpacking” will make your outings more fun, and that’s what it is all about. Fastpacking isn’t just about what you carry; it is also about the clothes you are wearing and the boots on your feet.

In short, fastpacking requires that you look at all of your gear and ask yourself, “Do I really need this?” and “Is there a lighter-weight alternative?”

Here are two keys to successful fastpacking:

1. CARRY LESS

Travel Lighter By Carrying Less: What you can leave at home will surprise you.

• Tent: A tent is necessary for surviving the cold and snowy slopes of Mount Everest, but most likely you will encounter more pleasant conditions. Because a tent is the single heaviest piece of gear you will pack, you can save the most weight by leaving it at home.

One good alternative is a tarp. A tarp weighs a pound or less, and you can string it from the branches of a tree, or simply prop it up with sturdy branches you find on the ground.

• Cook kit: A pot, skillet, bowl, mug and cutlery are civilized, but you don’t need all of that. Pack dinners that require only boiling, such as dry noodles and dehydrated soups, and all you’ll need are a one-quart cook pot that you can share with your buddy, a mug for eating and drinking, and a spoon.

• Stove: Due to regulations that can prohibit campfires, you sometimes have to carry a stove. But, when you have the option of cooking over a fire, you can leave the stove at home. To cook on a fire, let the flames die down, nestle your cook pot among the coals and you’ll have hot chow in no time.

• Water filter: Creek, river and pond water is brimming with parasites and bacteria that can make you sick, but you don’t need to carry a heavy water filter to clean your water. Instead, treat your water with lighter-weight water-purification tablets.

2. CARRY LIGHTER GEAR

Travel Lighter by Carrying Lighter Gear: Equipment manufacturers rival NASA in their quest to make better and lighter equipment.

• Headlamp: LED technology is lighter and allows for longer burning than conventional bulbs. Use an LED headlamp and you can save some weight, too.

• Boots: Match your footwear to the conditions you’ll encounter. If you’ll be hiking across snowfields, you’ll need ankle-high, waterproof boots, but if you will be hiking on mostly dry and even trails, you can probably do with a sturdy pair of much lighter trail-running shoes.

• Sleeping bag: Mummy-style, goose-down-insulated sleeping bags can weigh half that of their synthetic-fill counterparts. Down doesn’t insulate once it gets wet, but if you are sleeping in a tent or under the shelter of a tarp, your bag is unlikely to get wet. If, however, there is that risk, pack a synthetic bag just to be safe.

• Sleeping pad: A full-length foam pad is pure luxury, but a half- or three-quarters- length pad can save some weight. To pad and insulate your legs from the cold ground, simply put extra clothing or your pack under your legs.

Q. I’ve been looking at buying a new knife. I found a sheath knife with a 5-inch blade. If I did get one could I carry it?
— Mike the Knife, Colonia, N.J.

A. Good question, Mike. Though BSA has no national policy against large sheath knives, the organization does discourage their use for safety reasons. In fact, most local councils and camps do expressly prohibit the use of such knives. Better choice: A good folding knife with a locking blade. There are hundreds to choose from, many which meet the same needs as a five-inch sheath knife.

Q. Hey Gear Guy, I went out on a desert trip to the Sahara Desert last weekend and I had a hard time keeping cool. I was in a tank top and shorts but I still got hot and sweaty. Can you tell me what would be better to wear?
— Hot Harry, Grayslake, Ill.

A. Weekend trip to the Sahara Desert? Wow Harry, you may be hot but you’re also a lucky kid to get to go on a trip like that.

Okay, there are a couple things you can do to keep yourself cooler in desert environments. First off, what color was your tank top? Black? Navy blue? Dark colors absorb heat from the sun and only make you a hotter Harry. So whether for your shirt, pants or hat, stick with light colors like white, yellow or stone.

Now this may seem wacky, but long sleeve shirts and pants can actually make you cooler than shorts and a tank top because it keeps the bright sun off your skin (ever see photos of camel drivers in the desert wearing big, flowing white robes?). I’m guessing you’re not interested in wearing something that looks like a dress, so choose lightweight and breathable shirts and pants with built-in vents that’ll let the hot air escape. Cotton fabrics are good because they breathe really well but they do absorb sweat and can feel sticky. That’s why some folks who spend lots of time in very hot environments prefer clothing made from a nylon-cotton or nylon-polyester blend which is better at wicking the sweat away from your body so you stay dry and cool. Keep in mind you can actually get a sunburn through your clothing so, if possible, choose fabrics with an UPF (the amount of ultraviolet light that penetrates fabric) of 15 or greater.

Finally: wear a hat. Look for one with a wide brim that’ll shade your head, neck and face—it’ll feel like you’re wearing your own personal shade tree.

You and your troop have been hiking half the day to reach the mountain’s summit. You’re thirsty — and even though your leader warned everyone not to eat snow, you can’t resist. So you reach down and pack a big white ball of snow. Looks clean, you think. And you start chomping.

Fast-forward 18 hours: The rest of your troop is out playing while you’re sitting on the toilet—been there all morning with some wicked diarrhea courtesy of that snowball you ate yesterday. Not fun.
WHAT’S HOT

Great gear to treat your water:

MSR SweetWater MicroFilter ($90, cascadedesigns.com): This durable, simple-to-use pump filters 1.25 liters per minute and weighs just 11 ounces. The SweetWater’s 0.2-micron filter removes bacteria and protozoa as well as the smell and taste of most water.

Aquamira Frontier Pro filter ($25, mcnett.com): The ingenious Frontier Pro is a two-ounce filter that attaches to most any narrow-mouth water bottle, including supermarket-bought water bottles, and filters the water as you suck it through the mouthpiece.

Potable Aqua ($10, potableaqua.com): Just pop two of these iodine purification tablets into one quart of questionable water, shake, wait about 20 minutes and you’ll have safe, drinkable water.

SteriPEN Adventurer Opti ($100, steripen.com): Just plop in this 3.6-ounce battery-powered UV-light purifying wand and stir. Takes just 90 seconds to purify one liter of water. Also doubles as an LED flashlight.

Platypus CleanStream Gravity Microfilter ($100, cascadedesigns.com): This 13.7-ounce gravity-fed system filters four liters of water in just 2.5 minutes with almost zero effort. Simply fill the “dirty” bag with water and hold it higher than the “clean” bag, and gravity will pull the water through the 0.2-micron filter cartridge until it’s ready to drink. Good for camping in groups.

Katadyn MicroPur MP1 Tablets ($13 for 30 tabs, katadyn.com): Simply dissolve these chlorine dioxide purification tablets in suspect water. Takes between 30 minutes and four hours depending on water quality and water temp. Used by the U.S. military and distributed to crews at Philmont Scout Ranch.

First Need XL Water Purifier ($112, generalecology.com): he First Need purifier removes nasties down to 0.1 micron and provides two quarts of water per minute while pumping. Weighs 16 ounces.

Whether it’s snow or a clear mountain stream, you can get very sick from drinking untreated water.

“Even if it looks clear and clean, you’ve just got to do whatever you can to purify it,” says Jordan Romero, 13, who is on track to be the youngest mountaineer to summit all of the world’s seven tallest peaks. Luckily there are many ways to purify your water and several great gear options that make the job easier.

BOILING

This one is simple. Just heat any suspect water to a roiling boil. When half-inch-wide bubbles are rising from the bottom of the pot for about a minute, you’re good to go. “We always collect snow, melt it and boil it,” Jordan says.

Pros: Cheap, simple, very effective.

Cons: Slow, especially at high altitudes; can use lots of stove fuel; won’t remove silt.

CHEMICALS

Just plop in iodine or chlorine tablets or drops, and wait as they kill the nasties. Tablets cost between $10 and $15 for a pack of 20.

Pros: Ultralight, simple, great as a backup purifying method. “It’s quick and cheap,” Jordan says.

Cons: “It can affect the water’s taste,” Jordan adds. You need to wait 15 to 60 minutes before drinking, it won’t clean out the silt, and not all chemical purifiers are effective against all germs and things—be sure to check the label.

UV LIGHT

These battery-powered wands emit ultraviolet light to purify your water. Just turn one on and wave it around in your water. UV purifiers cost $100 or more.

Pros: Very portable, fast, easy, no chemical taste.

Cons: Won’t work in muddy water, requires batteries, expensive, can treat only small batches at a time.

MIOX

This stands for MIxed OXidant treatment. Basically it uses salt and electricity to make a water solution that interacts with your untreated water.

Pros: Easy, very portable.

Cons: Expensive, must wait for at least 15 minutes while water is treated, won’t filter out silt, requires batteries.

FILTERS AND MECHANICAL PURIFIERS

Filters use a handheld pump that pushes water through a tight screen and a filter that strains out germs as well as silt and such. These are good for wilderness areas where human virus contamination isn’t an issue. Purifiers go one step further (using iodine or electrostatic functions) to deactivate dangerous viruses. Purifiers are essential when traveling in areas where human waste might be contaminating your water source. These generally cost between $40 and $200. Look for one with a filter pore size of 0.2 microns or less. Also pay attention to its advertised liters/per minute, as this will tell you how long it will take you to pump the water.

Pros: Easy, removes chunky stuff and contaminants from the water, generally durable.

Cons: “They can be bulky to fit in your pack,” Jordan says. Also, they can be expensive and could clog and fail in the field.

HOW MUCH WATER DO I NEED?

A good rule: 2 to 3 liters of water per Scout per day. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink. Always have it at the ready and drink small amounts frequently.

WHAT IF IT’S MUDDY?

Muddy water? No problem. Just let it settle in the bottom of a wide pot. Then very carefully scoop the clear water from the top. Next, strain it through a bandana or a paper coffee filter. Finally, filter, boil or purify and drink up!

Q. I’ve been camping for years but am still having trouble getting comfortable when I’m sleeping. I can only sleep on my side with my right arm under my pillow but that can be trouble on cold nights when my mummy bag is cinched up tight. Any help Gear Guy?
—Sleepless Jake, Adamsville, Tenn.

A. Hmmm, Jake, that’s a tricky one. You might want to try a roomier, rectangular-shaped sleeping bag instead of a mummy bag. It’ll give you more space to move around and roll over on your side without feeling tight and uncomfortable. Of course, rectangular-shaped bags don’t insulate you quite as well since there’s more dead airspace inside the bag, so you might want to get one that’s rated for slightly colder weather than your current mummy. You might also consider a hammock tent like the one I wrote about here. Some guys find that hammocks help them sleep better and are a great alternative to regular tent camping. Hope this works and the ZZZZs find you on your next trip.